Highly recommend having a look at this collection of photos from around the world depicting the beginning of Ramadan last week; some really beautiful pictures here.
Its the first time I've lived in a Muslim country during the Holy Month of Ramadan. While I would have considered myself to already have a reasonable understanding of the practice and meaning of Ramadan, seeing my neighbours and colleagues integrate it into their daily lives has been new. Its easy to forget that Kosovo is a majority-Muslim country: society here is extremely secular and there is little visible sign of religion around the city. This is particularly the case compared to Sarajevo, which I always thought of a pretty secular place itself. Its quite rare to see women wearing the hijab here (at least in urban areas), and the lack of historic buildings generally means there is nothing like the beautiful Islamic heritage, architecture and decorative influence so prominent in Sarajevo. From almost any location in Sarajevo you seemed to be able to hear the call to prayer from two or three different mosques intermingling at sunset, but in Pristina the call and the practice of Islam itself is something that almost needs to be sought out.
Which I suppose is why it was interesting to realise over the past week how many of my neighbours and colleagues are fasting, because over the past three months I never perceived any sign of their faith. I mean this of course not in a way intended to indicate any judgment on my part; simply that I find it intriguing how Kosovo society has closely integrated faith into life in a way which is quietly and discretely expressed, and it does lead me to wonder whether there's any relation in this to Kosovo Albanian's long history of living as a minority in a country (Serbia/Yugoslavia) which was majority Christian.
Most of the building I live in is occupied by my landlord, his family, married children, wives and grandchildren; it transpired last week that I'm one of the only two people in the building not observing the fast. Nor do they expect me to, of course, but its still interesting to see and hear the gathering for iftar (the evening meal which breaks the fast) taking place every evening.
Ramadan also throws up all sorts of little observations and dilemmas which are unknownst to us back in Ireland. For instance, half the restaurants and cafés around town (especially those near our office) have closed for Ramadan because as business is significantly reduced anyway, its as good a time as any to take summer holidays. More seriously, I hadn't ever thought about the sleep deprivation that accompanies the fast; because of daylight hours this time of year the pre-fast meal has to take place at around 3.30am, so that sleep as well as eating patterns are profoundly disrupted. How to politely inquire after the well-being of colleagues who are clearly exhausted and falling asleep at their desks by 3pm?
How to remind myself not to cheerfully announce loudly that 'I'm off for lunch now' or complain after my return that I'm sleepy because I ate too much? Is it impolite or simply immaterial if I eat in front of people who are fasting - is bringing breakfast and coffee to my desk off-limits for the month of August? It's not that I mind, but I'm almost as afraid that I'll offend my fasting colleagues more by making a big deal out of their observance than by impolitely enjoying a croissant in front of them in the mornings.
Especially during summer, observing the fast must be a daunting challenge for which I have huge respect (extended daylight hours, no water despite temperatures in the mid-30s). All very intriguing cultural differences, and all make me consider the contrast with home, where its so in fashion these days to complain and feel so uncomfortable about the Catholic Church's requirements regarding behaviour and conduct, few of which are ever observed regardless.
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